A Designer’s Guide to Elevating Your Beads
Ever wondered why some glass beads just have that extra pop of luxury? It might be the bead lining! Lining a glass bead not only adds a polished look but also enhances the bead's functionality and durability. Let’s explore the benefits, techniques, and tips for lining your beads so you can make the most of this versatile finishing touch.
Why Line Your Glass Beads?
Lining your beads brings a touch of elegance, creating a smooth, finished hole that’s not only beautiful but practical. Here’s what bead lining can do:
Choosing Your Metal
Silver is a popular choice for its softness and shine, but don’t overlook copper or brass for a warm, vintage feel. Whatever metal you choose, lining adds a whole new dimension to your beads, elevating your jewelry designs with a unique touch.
Choosing Your Tubing
The beauty of bead lining is its versatility. You can use any type of metal tubing as long as it fits the bead hole. Just keep a few things in mind:
You want a Snug Fit: Make sure your tubing fits snuggly in the bead hole. If it's a little loose, wrap the tube with a layer or two of tape for a snug fit.
Strength: If the bead is for a necklace or bracelet, choose a strong chain or cord. I often line beads made on 3/16" diameter mandrels. They fit well on my Pandora bracelet and I love wearing these beads on a snake chain. A 1.3mm snake chain carries these beads nicely without the sag you can get with thinner chains.
Note: if you choose to line beads made on 3/32" diameter mandrels, you will need to thread the chain through the tube before you add a clasp as the tube is usually too small for any of the commercial clasps to fit through.
Tubing Sizes to Look For
To choose the right tubing, start by measuring the bead hole size with a caliper. This tool will help you find a snug fit by accurately measuring the inside diameter of the hole. Once you have this measurement, you can select tubing that closely matches the hole size for a secure fit.
Jewelry supply stores often carry tubing suitable for lining beads, as it’s commonly used in stone setting. Look for options at popular suppliers like Rio Grande, Lacy West, Santa Fe Jewelers Supply, or Etsy.
I personally prefer Fine Silver Tubing because it’s soft and flares easily without splitting. However, sterling silver, copper, and brass are also great options—they might just need a little annealing before flaring. For ease of use, aim for light wall tubing, which requires less effort to shape and form.
Tips for Lining Your Beads
Ready to get started? Here’s a quick guide to lining your beads:
Insert and Measure: Place your tubing in the bead and mark about 2mm extra on each side for flaring. If you’re adding bead caps, include them in your measurement.
Cut to Size: Use a jeweler’s saw or a tube cutter for a clean cut. Debur the tube ends with a deburring tool.
Flare the Ends: Using a bead lining tool (see list of Bead Lining tools below), gently flare the tube over the bead caps, flipping the bead over after every press or half turn for even coverage. No caps? Go slow to create a smooth rolled edge.
Finalize: Once your caps are snug, you can hammer lightly to ensure a flat, secure finish.
Bead Lining Tools
These are a few of the bead lining tools available. I have both and use both depending on what I'm working on. There are others and a quick search on Google for "glass bead lining tools" will introduce you to these below and a few more.
- Nortel Beadliner - https://www.nortelglass.com/nortel-bead-liner/
- Impress Beadliner - https://www.artintheround.com/?product=impress-beadliner
- a hammer
Below are more detailed notes for using the above noted bead lining tools.
The Nortel (or Jim Moore) Beadliner
To use the arbor press style bead liners you want to balance the end of your bead assembly on the bottom die and bring the top die down to settle on the top of the assembly. While holding onto the bead assembly begin pressing the top die down on the assembly. Take your time and flip the bead assembly after every press.
Tip: you need to be holding onto the assembly in the beginning because you'll want to hold the bottom bead cap up over the tubing a bit until the tubing flares out enough to hold the caps in place.
Flipping the bead over after every press with result in a better capture and nice uniform flaring. Once you've flared the tubing enough to capture the caps and there is no risk of splitting the silver, you can press with a little more effort. I finish with a hammer to tap the flared ends flat to the bead cap.
the Impress Beadliner
To use the Impress style bead liner, this tool has a die on the bottom that has a pin that will hold the bead and tube assembly in place and the top die is for flaring. This tool does a great job on lining beads without bead caps as it leaves a nice rounded lip around the bead hole.
To get started you only want to make half turns vs a whole revolution, then stop, flip the bead and do the process again. I found an excellent video tutorial that shows the process of using this tool and includes the preparation of the tube when getting started. The video does a much better job of explaining the process using this tool than I do. To watch click here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0BUn55TXm8.
Lastly you can use a hammer and a block to add a liner to your beads. This is an old method and while it works very well it comes with a big risk, like hitting your glass bead instead of the metal. To follow this technique I advise using bead caps as they will guard the bead from the hammer, especially when you get close to the glass.
Think Big (Beads)
For larger beads with holes 1/2” and up, finding pre-made tubing can be a challenge and can be costly. That’s why I recommend making your own lining! Crafting your own tube (or liner) from sheet metal (24ga or 26ga) opens up endless creative possibilities, like adding custom patterns or scalloped edges for a truly unique touch.
To create your lining, solder the metal into a ring sufficient to fit the inside of your bead with enough material to overlap the edges of the bead. Once you have the fit, use a dapping tool and hammer to start the flaring process. Carefully hammer the edges down onto your bead and continue to flip the assembly over to get a uniform flare.
Tip: Using a wooden block can provide more protection for your glass beads while you work.
Ready to take your bead designs to the next level?
Lining your glass beads offers endless creative possibilities, adding a touch of luxury and personalized flair to your jewelry. Whether you’re opting for a sleek silver finish or trying out unique patterns, bead lining brings a whole new dimension to your creations.
Give these techniques a try and see the transformation in your work! Lining your beads not only enhances their durability but also opens up a world of artistry where you can experiment with different metals, tools, and styles.
Got questions or bead-lining tips of your own? I’d love to hear from you! Just hit reply, and let’s chat. Looking to purchase lined big hole beads? click here!
